Sewing with Elastic Thread {Shirring Fabric} Made Easy

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Shirring fabric and sewing with elastic thread are great as you don`t need to worry about any fiddly zippers, buttons, or dreaded buttonholes. Look in any kid`s boutique and you will see all sorts of clothing with elastic thread or shirring elastic. Shirring is a method of sewing elastic that is used around the bodice, waist, or at the back of many women`s sewing patterns to give shape and comfort. This tutorial will teach you how to do shirring with elastic thread.

Shirring Fabric, Sewing with Elastic ThreadPinSewing with Elastic Thread – Shirring Fabric

Contents

What is Shirring Fabric with Elastic Thread?Shirring vs SmockingSupplies for Sewing with Elastic ThreadHow to Wind a Bobbin with Elastic ThreadStep 1 – Insert through HoleStep 2 – Hand Wind Sewing with Elastic Thread – Machine SettingsSewing with Elastic Thread TutorialStep 1 – Thread the MachineStep 2 – Mark the RowsStep 3 – How to Sew with Elastic Thread Step 4 – More Rows of Sewing Elastic ThreadStep 5 – Press the Shirring FabricShirring Fabric and Sewing with Elastic Thread – TroubleshootingClothing Made by Shirring with Elastic ThreadWashing Shirring ItemsAlternatives to Sewing with Elastic ThreadMore Elastic ArticlesMore Articles On GatheringSewing with Elastic Thread (Shirring)ToolsMaterialsInstructions

What is Shirring Fabric with Elastic Thread?

Shirring is a form of gathering and is the name commonly used for sewing with elastic thread. Shirring fabric is done by putting an elastic thread in your bobbin case to create an elasticated row of stitching. When stitched in several rows, it creates a band of elastic around a bodice or the top of a skirt. Shirring is far more comfortable than regular elastic as it is soft and flexible.

Sounds easy right? With a little practice, you will be making perfectly shirred tops, dresses, and skirts too!

Sewing with Elastic Thread (Shirring) ExamplesSewing with Elastic Thread (Shirring) ExamplesPinShirring Fabric Examples

Shirring vs Smocking

Smocking is a very traditional art similar to shirring that uses lines of gathering. It is not stretchy like shirring although the look can be quite similar. Fabric is gathered into small pleats using parallel rows of running stitches. Once gathered it is hand-stitched with various embroidery patterns. Below you can see a chevron pattern.

Smocking Smocking PinSmocking

Supplies for Sewing with Elastic Thread

Shirring Elastic

The first thing we need for shirring is an elastic thread. It generally just comes in black or white colors so choose whichever is the best match. Elastic thread comes on a roll and while it is thicker than sewing thread, it is the thinnest elastic you can get.

The elastic will be on the underside of the garment so unless your fabric is really sheer you won`t see it when worn. If it really needs to match you could try dying a white elastic thread.

For the best results purchase a good quality elastic thread like Gutermann or Dritz. Some of the cheaper elastics are overly stretchy and you may not be happy with the results.

Shirring Fabric

Shirring is best done on fine fabrics such as cotton voile, rayon, silk, and polyester. Thicker fabrics will not gather to the same extent and may be harder to control. Even quilting cotton will only give slight gathers so stay with the thinnest fabric you can manage and do a test first.

Top Thread

The top of the sewing machine needs to be threaded with a strong all-purpose thread. Generally, you would use a similar color to the top of your fabric so that it blends in.

How to Wind a Bobbin with Elastic Thread

Start shirring fabric by winding the bobbin with an elastic thread.

Step 1 – Insert through Hole

Thread the elastic through one of the holes in your bobbin to stop the end from pulling out. Hold on to this as you wind.

Sewing Elastic Thread - Winding the BobbinSewing Elastic Thread - Winding the BobbinPinSewing Elastic Thread – Winding the Bobbin

Step 2 – Hand Wind

Then start hand winding the elastic thread. You can`t wind elastic thread on the machine I`m afraid.

Don`t worry, it doesn`t take long to wind a bobbin as the elastic is much thicker than regular thread. You will want the bobbin to be not wound too tight. I don`t stretch as I wind but you will need to experiment to see what works best for your machine. Once you are finished winding, cut off the excess from the hole at the top of the bobbin.

Sewing Elastic Thread - Winding the BobbinSewing Elastic Thread - Winding the BobbinPin Sewing Elastic Thread – Winding the Bobbin

Sewing with Elastic Thread – Machine Settings

LENGTH – Set your machine to a longer stitch length. I set mine to a 4.0 which is what I would usually use to gather. Some machines will go up to a 6.0 length. WIDTH – We will be straight stitching so the width will be 0. While it is possible to use a zig-zag or decorative stitch, the results are a little less predictable.

The longer the stitch length, the more the elastic thread will gather. For machines with preset lengths, choose a gathering or basting stitch.

Test a scrap of fabric and see if you like the look and if the stitches look even without any unnecessary looping. If the top or bottom is forming in loops adjust the sewing machine tension. Here is a chart that will help you get the correct tension.

Sewing Machine Tension GuideSewing Machine Tension GuidePinSewing Machine Tension Guide for Sewing with Elastic Thread

Sewing with Elastic Thread Tutorial

Step 1 – Thread the Machine

Start by threading your machine. You will have a regular thread at the top of the machine and an elastic thread at the bobbin.

Put the elastic bobbin in your machine as you normally would. Make sure it is threaded correctly through any tension grooves in the bobbin casing. Shirring is a fairly simple technique and most people that have trouble discover that the elastic is not in the bobbin groove properly. So check carefully now.

Step 2 – Mark the Rows

For small amounts of shirring I use the edge of my foot as a guide but wider bands will need the rows marked. Even if you think you can sew straight it can get out of hand with repeated rows. Use tailor`s chalk or a removable pen that won`t permanently mark the fabric.

I mark rows ½ inch (12mm) apart. If you will be sewing narrower rows then just sew in between every second one. You don`t want to go cross-eyed looking at lots of marked rows. Striped fabric makes your job even easier.

Step 3 – How to Sew with Elastic Thread

Backstitch the end and then start stitching your first row.

It may seem a little strange at first as it often sounds different from normal sewing due to the increased tension in the bobbin. The first row won`t gather up much but you will notice the elastic gets progressively tighter as you add more rows.

How to Sew Elastic Thread - The First RowHow to Sew Elastic Thread - The First RowPin Sewing Elastic Thread – The First Row

At the end of each row, you can either backstitch and cut off the threads or just move to the next row forming a loop at the end. I prefer back stitching even though it does use a little more elastic due to the long tails.

Step 4 – More Rows of Sewing Elastic Thread

Once you have sewn your first row, start sewing the second row at about ¼ – ½ inches (6-12mm) apart. I like to use the edge of my presser foot as a guide.

It is very important that you stretch out the elastic in front of the foot. You need to be sewing over FLAT fabric.

Stretch the Fabric in Front FlatStretch the Fabric in Front FlatPinStretch the Fabric in Front Flat

If you run out of shirring thread before you have finished, leave a long tail and then start when you finished. Tie the ends of the tails together on the inside. If possible keep an eye on the amount of elastic thread in your bobbin and try and end at one of the sides. You would be surprised how much elastic thread you will go through for sewing shirring.

Sewing with Elastic Thread - Second RowSewing with Elastic Thread - Second RowPin Sewing with Elastic Thread – Second Row

Step 5 – Press the Shirring Fabric

Once you have finished, gently press the fabric with a hot steam iron. Don`t pull the iron along the gathers but simply press on top and then move to the next section. This will give your shirring finer gathers.

Shirring Fabric - Sewing with Elastic ThreadShirring Fabric - Sewing with Elastic ThreadPinShirring Fabric – Sewing with Elastic Thread

Shirring Fabric and Sewing with Elastic Thread – Troubleshooting

If you find that your elastic is becoming uneven and loopy at the back, just check that the bobbin elastic thread has not come out of the tension groove.Stop immediately if your sewing machine sounds really straining. Check the bobbin is not wound too tight and is pulling through the bobbin groove. If in doubt, rethread both the top and elastic bobbin threads. You may have to rewind the bobbin if it is not pulling through smoothly. Always check the sewing machine tension if you get loopy stitching.

Clothing Made by Shirring with Elastic Thread

Because it is often hard to predict how much the shirring will gather up, it is easier to sew the item flat and then sew the seam last.

For example, when sewing a shirred bodice with seams on either side, sew one seam and leave the other one open. That way you will be sewing it all flat. When you have finished, check the fit and then sew the remaining seam making it tighter if necessary.

Sewing with Elastic ThreadSewing with Elastic ThreadPinSewing with Elastic Thread

Washing Shirring Items

Elastic thread can perish over time or with harsh washing chemicals and particularly with clothes dryers. Avoid tumble drying at all costs! Make your hard work last by hand washing items with shirring in cold water with a mild detergent.

Alternatives to Sewing with Elastic Thread

The only real alternative to shirring is to gather using a casing or sewn-on elastic. This will use thicker elastic to control the gathers in the bodice, waist, or skirt top. Further Reading:Gathering with Elastic

Looking for More on Sewing Elastic

Learn all about sewing elastic for waistbands and fabric edges with this easy tutorial that will show you the best methods for various items.

More Elastic Articles

Types of ElasticHow to Sew Leotard ElasticSewing Fold Over ElasticHow to Gather Knit Fabric with ElasticSewing Elastic Thread – ShirringRuchingSewing Lingerie ElasticHow to Sew an Elastic WaistbandBinding Leotards and SwimsuitsSewing Elastic

More Articles On Gathering

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How to Gather by MachineHow to Gather by HandShirring (Sewing with Elastic Thread)Gathering with a SergerHow to Sew RuchingGathering with CordGathering with ElasticHow to Gather TulleGathering FootRufflerGathering FabricHow to Sew an Elastic WaistbandGathering Stitch

sewing with elastic thread, shirringsewing with elastic thread, shirringPin

Sewing with Elastic Thread (Shirring)

Learn how to sew with elastic thread to create perfectly elasticized tops and waistbands. Also called shirring.

4.8/5 – (64 votes)

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Difficulty: Easy Beginner

Keyword: Sewing

Total Time: 30minutes

Tools

Empty BobbinSewing Supplies – Machine, needles, pins

Materials

Elastic ThreadFabric (Light to medium weight)Regular Top Thread

Instructions

Wind the elastic thread on an empty bobbin. Thread the end of the elastic through one of the holes and hold this as you gently hand wind. Don't stretch it out as you wind. Thread your machine with regular thread on top and elastic thread in the bobbin. Don't forget to put the elastic through the bobbin groove as normal. Mark the fabric where you will sew the rows of shirring. Try lines ½ inch (12mm) apart. Backstitch and then stitch the frist row. It will sound a little different to usual sewing. Backstitch at the ends.Sew the second row. IMPORTANT – stretch the first row out so you are sewing the fabric flat. Continue until you have enough rows. Lightly steam the shirred fabric to make the elastic tighter.

4.8/5 – (64 votes)