BLIND STITCH Hem {How to Make a Blind Hem Easily}

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A blind stitch hem is a fantastic way to create an invisible hem for your projects. If you look in your cupboard you are bound to find several pairs of pants and a skirt or two that use this technique. Traditionally a blind stitch hem was done by hand but did you know that you can stitch invisibly on most modern machines? Learn how to sew a hem that is invisible!

Blind Hem Stitch, How to Sew a Blind HemPinBlind Hem Stitch, How to Sew a Blind Hem

Contents

Blind Stitch Hem TutorialWhat is a Blind Stitch Hem?When to Use a Blind Stitch Hem?Blind Stitch Hem vs Ladder (Slip) Stitch Supplies to Sew a Blind HemAdjusting the Length of the Pattern for Blind Hem StitchHow to Sew a Blind Stitch Hem (By Machine) Step by Step InstructionsStep 1 – Press The Raw EdgeStep 2: Press the Folded Hem AgainStep 3: Fold BackwardsStep 4 – Select the Blind Hem StitchStep 5 – Stitch the Blind HemStep 6 – Fold Down the HemFinal Tip for Sewing a Blind Stitch HemBlind Hem by HandBlind Stitch HemToolsMaterialsInstructionsMore Hem ArticlesMore Presser Feet

Blind Stitch Hem Tutorial

What is a Blind Stitch Hem?

A blind stitch hem is simply a hem where the stitches are not showing on the outside of the garment. The invisibility is enhanced by using a matching thread and creating minute vertical stitches that blend into the fabric. It is particularly successful in patterned fabrics that are light to mediumweight.

When to Use a Blind Stitch Hem?

Blind hems are best suited to straight hems such as those found on a skirt or pant legs. A blind hem should be used where you require a wider hem with an invisible finish on the right side of the garment. If you have a round hem or are using really thick fabric, it would be best to use a bias tape hem rather than a blind stitch hem.

Blind Stitch Hem vs Ladder (Slip) Stitch

The blind stitch outlined in this article is purely for sewing the hems on pants and skirts. If you are looking for an invisible stitch to sew seams shut with (for example on stuffed toys or on a lined garment), then you need a ladder stitch or a slip stitch which is created by hand stitching the seam with small stitches.

Here is a full tutorial on how to sew a ladder stitch.

Blind Stitch, Blind Stitch Hem, How to Sew a Blind StitchBlind Stitch, Blind Stitch Hem, How to Sew a Blind StitchPinBlind Stitch Hem, How to Sew a Blind Hem

Supplies to Sew a Blind Hem

In order to sew a blind hem, you don`t really need any fancy supplies. Here is a rundown of the essentials.

Blind Hem Presser FootMatching ThreadBasic Sewing Supplies – Sewing machine, scissors, thread.

Best Thread to Sew a Blind Hem:

The whole point of doing a blind hem is to make it invisible so make sure your thread matches as closely as possible. If you can`t find a match, going darker is normally best, but trust your instinct. Your thread should be strong since the stitches will need to be gently pulled through the fabric in the last step. (Read: Sewing thread types)Specialty blind hemming thread is available but I generally just use a strong polyester thread such as Rasant or Coats.

Best Foot to Sew a Blind Stitch Hem:

Most mid-range machines come with a blind hem foot in their kit but you can also use an all-purpose sewing foot or a zig-zag foot

The main difference between the blind hem foot is that it has a guide to help you stitch straight. Equally good results can be found with a regular sewing foot and the careful use of a ruler. Having a good eye helps too – I always find myself drifting left when sewing so anything with a guide helps keep me on track.

 Blind Stitch Hem Foot  Blind Stitch Hem Foot PinBlind Stitch Hem Foot

Sewing Supplies

All you need is your basics – a ruler, some pins, and an iron! If you are just learning how to sew, read my article on beginner sewing kit.

Adjusting the Length of the Pattern for Blind Hem Stitch

Because a blind hem works best on wider hems of over 1 inch (2.5cm), you may need to add a little extra seam allowance to your hem if it was originally designed for a narrower hem.

Just check your pattern for the current hem allowance and adjust accordingly.

How to Sew a Blind Stitch Hem (By Machine) Step by Step Instructions

Step 1 – Press The Raw Edge

If you are using a lightweight fabric, press the raw edge of the hem up by ¼ inch (6mm) on the wrong side.

Alternatively, if your fabric is really bulky you could simply serger or zig-zag the edge. If you use your serger, just be careful to only cut the minimum amount from the raw edge.

Step 1 - Press up the Raw EdgeStep 1 - Press up the Raw EdgePinStep 1 – Press up the Raw Edge

Step 2: Press the Folded Hem Again

On the wrong side of the fabric, press the edge up again by the seam allowance.

Here I am making a 1 inch (2.5cm) wide hem. Place pins along the hem vertical to the edge as shown.

Step 2 - Press Again and Pin the Blind HemStep 2 - Press Again and Pin the Blind HemPinStep 2 – Press Again and Pin the Blind Hem

Step 3: Fold Backwards

Fold the hem under towards the back so about ⅛ inch (3mm) is poking out of the edge.

Step 3 - Fold BackwardsStep 3 - Fold BackwardsPinStep 3 – Fold Backwards

Step 4 – Select the Blind Hem Stitch

Make sure your machine is threaded with a matching thread for the best results. Now set your machine on the blind stitch setting. You will want a stitch width of 2-3 and a stitch length of 2-3.

This is what the stitches generally look like. There will be some variations between machine brands and not all machines will have a stretch fabric blind hem option.

Blind Hem Stitch OptionsBlind Hem Stitch OptionsPinBlind Hem Stitch Options

Step 5 – Stitch the Blind Hem

Most machines will come with a special presser foot for blind hemming. If your machine doesn’t have one don’t worry – you will just have to concentrate a little harder to sew straight.

Position the fabric underneath your machine so that the zig-zag part of the stitch just pieces through the folded top edge of the fabric.

 Blind Stitch Hem  Blind Stitch Hem PinBlind Stitch Hem

If you have a blind stitch foot the guide will be aligned with the folded edge. Keep it aligned as you sew. Make sure you don’t sew over your pins!

I have used a contrasting thread color so you can see the stitching more easily but you should be using a matching thread.

 Blind Stitch Hem Stitching  Blind Stitch Hem Stitching Pin Blind Stitch Hem Stitching

Step 6 – Fold Down the Hem

Fold the hem down. The stitches will pull vertically very slightly. This is what it looks like on the front and back.

Back and Front of a Blind Stitch HemBack and Front of a Blind Stitch HemPinBack and Front of a Blind Stitch Hem

Final Tip for Sewing a Blind Stitch Hem

If you give your fabric a good press it will help meld the stitches into the hem making them even more invisible. Use some steam or water spray if it is a stubborn crease across the stitching anchors.

I used a contrast stitch so you could see what I was doing, but here is the same fabric with a matching thread. Invisible or at least nearly invisible!

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Blind Hem by Hand

If you want to do a blind hem by hand there are several ways you can do this. Below is how to do a blind hem by hand using a similar method to that done above with the sewing machine.

Read my article on the best hemming stitches.

Step 1 – Measure and fold a double fold hem to suit the required length of your garment. Step 2 – Fold the folded hem back to the right side leaving ⅛” (3mm) showing over the top of the folded fabric. Step 3 – Hide the knot of your thread in the fold. Step 4 – With the needle, catch a small bit of the fabric in the folded edge.  (Next to but not inside the hem.) Catch in just one layer of fabric. Step 5 – Move the needle ½” (12mm) to the left. Pick up a small stitch in the hem. Step 6 – Continue to the end of the hem.Step 7 – Fold the hem down and press.How to Do a Blind Hem by HandHow to Do a Blind Hem by HandPinHow to Do a Blind Hem by Hand

Blind Stitch Hem, How to Do a Blind HemBlind Stitch Hem, How to Do a Blind HemPin

Blind Stitch Hem

Learn how to do a blind stitch hem with this easy step by step tutorial. Invisible blind hems.

4.9/5 – (28 votes)

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Difficulty: Easy Beginner

Keyword: Sewing

Total Time: 5minutes

Tools

Blind Hem Presser Foot

Materials

Fabric

Instructions

On the wrong side, press the raw hem edge up by ¼ inch (6mm). Blind Hem Stitch, Blind HemBlind Hem Stitch, Blind HemPinPress the hem up again by the seam allowance or 1 inch (2.5cm). Blind Hem Stitch, Blind HemBlind Hem Stitch, Blind HemPinFold the hem under towards the back so ⅛ inch (3mm) is showing. Blind Hem Stitch, Blind HemBlind Hem Stitch, Blind HemPinSet your machine to the blind hem stitch and stitch width 2.5 and length 2.5.Blind Hem Stitch, Blind HemBlind Hem Stitch, Blind HemPinStitch along the folded hem so the zig-zag goes through the folded top edge of the fabric. PinFold the hem down and press. Blind Hem Stitch, Blind HemBlind Hem Stitch, Blind HemPin

More Hem Articles

GENERAL HEMS – How to Sew a Hem (This is the best article to read if you are not sure what kind of hem you need. It gives a rundown of all the most common types)NARROW HEMS – Sew a Narrow HemROLLED HEM FOOT – How to Use a Rolled Hem FootWIDE HEMS – How to Sew Wide HemsCIRCULAR HEMS – How to Sew Round HemsBLIND HEMS – How to Sew a Blind HemRUFFLED HEMS – Lettuce HemsKNIT FABRIC HEMS – How to Hem Knit Fabric, Catch StitchKNIT HEMS – Twin NeedleSQUARE HEMS – How to Sew Mitered CornersHAND HEMS – Hemming StitchNO SEW HEMS – How to Use Hemming TapeSIMPLE HEMS – Single Fold HemsDOUBLE HEMS – Double Fold HemsBIAS – Bias Tape HemsSCALLOPS – Scalloped EdgesINVISIBLE HEMS – Blind Hem Stitch

More Presser Feet

Gathering FootRufflerRolled Hem FootBlind Hem Foot10 Best Sewing Machine FeetTeflon FootAll-Purpose FootWalking Foot Binder FootEdge Stitch Foot

4.9/5 – (28 votes)